to think we supply the best assembly instructions in the business.
All our kits come with detailed drawings and instructions for insuring
your building experience is as stress free as possible. Some suppliers
simply give you a pile of metal and the original plans for the vessel
as a guide. This can be equated to a jigsaw puzzle with no picture....
We supply 3D renderings, parts identification sheets , written step
by step instructions, and 3D exploded views of each assembly step.
All the metal parts are numbered in a logical manner for easy identification.
a general welding guideline with the kits, however it is the builders
responsibility to educate themselves in proper boatbuilding welding
procedure. A beautiful boat or a wrinkled pile of junk can both
be built from our kits ! The difference is understanding incremental
and backstep welding .
the entire boat is first tacked together with tiny tacks every 3
inches or so. No welding of seams can be done until the entire boat
is assembled and tacked in this manner. These tacks must be as small
as is possible to enable them to break free when the plating is
stressed during weldout... It is better that the tack breaks relieving
stress, than the alternative of wrinkled plate.
entire boat is assembled start nearest the longitudinal centerline
as possible and weld any butt seams in the plating. (Butt seams
run athwartships) Start in the center of the plate and weld evenly
towards each edge using the "skip backstep" method, ending
each 3" pass on a tackweld.
Then go to the other side of the boat and weldout the mirror seam
on that side. Now do the next butt seams fwd. and then the next
butt seams aft. Work to the ends of the boat evenly from the centerline
outward. The plating must cool to room temperature before the next
welding pass in the backstep welding procedure. Note
at this point only weld the inside of the plating.
the butt seams are welded (inside) you can begin welding the longitudinal
seams. Start at the center (longitudinal) of the boat and weld the
chine for about 1/10th of the length of the boat working equally
fwd and aft of center, using the skip backslap method. Go to the
other side and do the same. Then move to the next seam inward (fairbody
or bearding line) and weld the same distance fwd and aft of LCL.
Move to the next seam outwards (knuckle or shear etc.) and do the
same . Work all the way to each end of the boat evenly working from
one side to the other. Note tackwelds should be popping loose like
mad at this point, this is not only expected but necessary to relieve
the welding stresses.
the insides of the seams are welded move to the outside of the vessel.
Welds below the waterline should all be "back gouged"
to solid metal. On steel boats use a suitable grinding wheel. On
aluminum boats use a skillsaw or die grinder.
the seams in 3" to 6" increments and use the same skip
backstep welding as inside, starting at the Longitudinal Centerline
of the boat and working evenly outwards towards the ends of the
entire skin is welded out you can start to weld the stringers to
the plating. Generally the stringers are welded to the plating first
starting in the middle of the boat and working evenly towards each
end. Stringer welding is typically 3"to 8" on 6"
to 12" centers staggered. Once the stringers are welded out
you can lightly weld the frames to the plating where there is contact.
If the plating does not contact the frame do not force it to. Frame
welding should be 2"-3" on 8"-12" centers staggered.
Over welding the frames to the plate will result in "the hungry
horse look" with sunken plating between frames.
the stringers and frames are welded, you can weld the stringer to
frame intersections and notches.
the entire vessel is welded install shaft and rudder tubing and
align engine beds etc.
study try "Boatbuilding with Steel" by Gil Klingle , or
"Boatbuilding with Aluminum" by Stephen Pollard.... These
are my picks for best books on the subject.
Us if you require more information.